Voracious this year asked local food producers to provide their favorite Thanksgiving recipes. We’ll run one recipe each day through Nov. 23; if you collect them all, you’ll have a complete feast.
Apple fans like to debate which varietal is best suited for baking, but Jerzy Boyz Farm’s Wynne Weinreb contends there’s no one right apple for a holiday pie.
“People want Granny Smiths or Gravensteins or Macintoshes,” Weinreb says, ticking off a few of the most popular baking apples. “I’m totally sold on a mix of apples. It’s the way to go.”
Weinreb is so taken with how different varietals can create a prism of encrusted flavors and colors that she sells “pie blend” assortments of her organic apples and pears. She recently used those fruits to create a Julia Child-inspired tarte tatin.
“It’s amazing,” Weinreb says. “I got raves. It’s certainly no more complicated than apple pie.”
Weinreb began playing with pie recipes after seeing the movie Julie and Julia, and taking a pie class at the U-District Farmer’s Market. The five-acre orchard she and her husband, Scott Beaton, tend in Chelan provides plenty of heirloom fruit for experiments. But Weinreb says she strives to give her customers the same opportunities.
“I really don’t hold anything back,” Weinreb says of the varietals she brings to market. “We sample at our booth, and you can sample 30 varieties of fruit.”
In addition to dozens of different apple and pear varietals, Weinreb and Beaton grow peaches, plums, cherries and nectarines. After the couple moved west from New Jersey in 1979, Beaton worked in orchards as a contract thinner and pruner; “it all fell together,” Weinreb says of the opening of their own farm a decade later.
Weinreb sells Jerzy Boyz fruit at the U-District and Ballard Farmer’s Markets. Years of selling hasn’t dimmed Weinreb’s enthusiasm for the wares her fellow vendors offer.
“Carrot growers bring ground flour!,” she says. “The market just dazzles me every time I go there.”
La Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin
For the crust:
1/2 cup Nash’s organic wheat flour or substitute with oats or Bluebird Farm’s Emmer or Cereal Blend, ground
1/2 cup ground organic almonds (I grind them in my Cuisinart, you can use a coffee grinder or a hammer if necessary)
3/4 stick unsalted chilled butter , cut into 1/2 inch pieces
2 tbsp organic virgin coconut oil, chilled
1 tbsp sugar
Pinch of salt
3 tbsp to 1/3 cup cold Jerzy Boyz apple cider or other juice, as needed, for dough to hold together
For the filling:
7 lbs Jerzy Boyz famous pie blend of apples or pears (this assortment changes weekly!)
Juice from 1/2 organic lemon
1/4 cup dried plums or apricots
1/2 cup organic light brown sugar
Plus the following:
3 tbsp soft butter
1 cup (organic) brown sugar
4-5 tbsp melted butter
heavy cast iron frying pan and a stainless steel cookie sheet (the same size or larger than the frying pan).
Grind nuts and flour or oat mixture in food processor with butter, coconut oil, sugar salt and cider, adding only enough liquid until mixture forms a mass.
Empty onto board, knead briefly, then wrap in plastic and refrigerate for an hour or two.
Quarter apples and remove cores, slice into lengthwise wedges, no thicker than 3/4-inch. Toss in a large bowl with lemon and sugar, allow 30 mins to render excess juice.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Smear soft butter inside cast iron pan with the bottom getting most of the butter. Spread 1/3-inch of sugar over the butter, then neatly fan the apple slices to cover the bottom. Sprinkle one tablespoon of melted butter and one tablespoon of sugar. Then more apple slices, more melted butter, more sugar, more slices.
Roll the dough out to the size of the pan (i like to use a pastry cloth), roll up on pin and unroll over apples. Tuck into sides of pan and cut 6 steam holes through the top of dough.
Set tarte pan on stovetop at medium heat for 4-5 minutes, then place in oven middle rack with a drip pan placed underneath. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes, until the crust is crisp and brown and juice is thick. Using a heavy pot holder, remove pan and set over moderately high heat on the stove top for several minutes, shaking pan so apples won’t stick on bottom. This will caramelize the bottom of the apples. When juices are all but evaporated, tarte is ready to unmold!
Place cookie sheet over pan and holding together very tightly, quickly invert the contents so the tarte is now on the cookie sheet. If the tarte did not unmold properly, rearrange slices using a spatula. Serve with ice cream, creme fraiche or Coconut Bliss.
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apples, bluebird grain farms, jerzyboyz, julia child, organic, pears, pie, sea breeze, tarte tatin, thanksgiving
Quince tarte Tatin David Lebovitz
The quantity of dough is suitable for any size pan, from 8 to 10-inches (20-26cm). If using a mold at the larger end of that spectrum, simply increase the quantity of quince liquid by about 25%. If quince aren’t your thing, poached pears work just as well.
And don’t worry if the quince syrup gels after it sits for a bit in the pan, as mine did in the photo above. Heat it with a bit more liquid, stirring until it’s smooth again. Extra syrup that collects from the finished tart should be saved to drizzle or brush over wedges of the finished tart, giving them a brilliant sheen.
To make the dough:
1 cup (140g) flour
2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 tablespoons (85g) unsalted butter, chilled, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 tablespoons ice water
1. In the bowl of a standing electric mixer, or food processor, blitz together the flour, sugar, salt, and butter, until the butter is in small, but discernible pieces, about the size of large peas.
2. Add the water and mix (or pulse) until the dough just begins to hold together. If it looks too dry, add a sprinkle more water.
3. Use your hands to knead the dough for a couple of seconds, just until it comes together, and shape it into a flat disk. Wrap in plastic and chill for at least 30 minutes.
To assemble the tarte Tatin:
1. Pour 1 1/4 cup (310ml) of strained quince poaching liquid in a tarte Tatin pan or cast iron skillet.
2. Cook over moderate heat until the liquid is thick and syrupy (the consistency of honey) and remove from heat. The amount should be about 1/4 cup (60ml).
3. Lay poached quince quarters, which have been patted dry, snugly against each other, rounded side down, in the pan. Pack them in tightly as they’ll settle down once baked.
4. On a lightly-floured surface, roll the dough into a circle a few inches bigger than the pan you’re using.
5. Drape the dough over the quince, tucking in the edges, and bake on a lower rack in a 375F (190C) oven for approximately 45 minutes. The tart is done when the dough is deep golden brown.
6. Remove from the oven and let rest on a cooling rack for a few minutes to settle, then overturn a rimmed serving platter or baking sheet over the tart, and flip the tart over. You may wish to wear long oven mitts and be sure to take appropriate precautions, as hot liquid will inevitably escape, which you’ll likely want to save to glaze the tart.
Serving: Don’t worry if your tart isn’t picture-perfect. Like the best French rustic desserts, looks take a back seat to taste and imperfections are part of their charm.
Serve warm, or at room temperature. Tarte Tatin should ideally be eaten the same day it’s made. Rewarm in a low oven or microwave before serving, if desired.
- About 10 cups heritage apples (skin on), quartered and cored.
- 1/2 cup flour
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon cinnamon
- 2 gratings nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon allspice
- 1 tablespoon of an artisan style cider vinegar or fresh squeezed lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon apple liqueur like Calvados or Caramel Apple (optional)
- 1-2 teaspoons butter chopped into little pieces
- 1 recipe double crust pie dough
- 1 egg white mixed with 2 T of water
- Slice apples in 1/2 inch slices or chunk them up into pieces you can comfortably get into your mouth!
- In a large mixing bowl put all ingredients except butter and mix lightly until most of the surfaces are covered.
- Pour into an unbaked pie crust, mounding high and dot with butter.
- Roll out second crust and place on top; crimp edges with a fork.
- Cut vent holes.
- Paint with egg white wash.
- Sprinkle some extra sugar evenly on top.
- Pre-heat oven to 425F and bake for 20 minutes.
- Reduce heat to 375F and bake for 40 minutes longer.
- Cool for at least 1 hour before eating if you can. 😉
2-1/2 Cups Flour
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
8 Tablespoons Leaf Lard
8 Tablespoons Butter
6-8 Tablespoons of Ice-Water (more or less as needed)
Art of the Pie: Gluten Free Dough
3-1/2 Cups Kate’s Gluten Free Flour Mix #1(see below)
1/2 Teaspoon Salt
2 Tablespoons Sugar
8 Tablespoons Leaf Lard
8 Tablespoons Butter
2 Tablespoons of an artisan Apple Cider Vinegar or Bragg’s Apple Cider Vinegar
Art of the Pie: Kate’s Gluten Free Flour Mix #1
2 -1/4 cups broArt of the Pie: Classic Pie Doughwn rice flour
1 cup gluten-free oat flour
1 cup millet flour
3/4 cup Mochiko sweet mochi rice flour
2/3 cup tapioca flour
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/4 cup potato starch
Art of the Pie: Gluten Free-Vegan Dough
2-1/3 cups Art of the Pie GF flour mix #2 (see below)
1/3 cup sorghum flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoon Jean Layton’s Pixie Dust
1/2 cup Earth Balance buttery stick
1/2 cup Crisco
1 tablespoon of an artisan Apple Cider Vinegar or Bragg’s Apple Cider Vinegar
5-7 Tbs Ice Water
Mochiko rice flour for rolling
Art of the Pie: Kate’s GF Flour Mix #2
2 cups tapioca starch
2 cups cornstarch
1 cup potato starch flour
4 cups Mochiko sweet mochi rice flour
Art of the Pie: Classic Apple Pie
(For a 9” Deep Dish Pie)
About 10 cups heritage apples (skin on), quartered, cored and chopped into medium size pieces
1/2 cup flour
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 small gratings nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1 tablespoon of an artisan Apple Cider Vinegar or fresh squeezed lemon
1 teaspoon butter chopped into little pieces
1 recipe double crust pie dough (See above)